Monday 31 March 2008

Clicker Training

I have already given my opinion on training cats to do tricks, its not something that I personally want to do. Its not that I believe it to be wrong or cruel, it is just down to my individual preference. Some cats may even enjoy it, in fact I would say they almost certainly do, have you ever tried to get a cat to do something it didn’t want to?!
However, one aspect of cat training that could be very useful is Clicker Training especially when used to train a cat away from unwanted behaviour.

Let me say right from the outset that I have never tried this, but the reports I have heard seem very positive and it seems to work effectively on older cats. It is based upon using positive reinforcement and rewarding good behaviour.

Apparently the art is to find something that motivates your cat. Mostly, but not exclusively, this would be food.

Initially you need to “charge” the clicker. You do this by pressing the clicker and follow this by giving your cat a treat. This can take some time for pussy to work out that clicks means treats.
But when the cat has picked up that clicks are positive, you can go on to build and mould positive cat behaviour by clicking when your cat does something right.

Clickers can be bought, but anything that clicks will do, even a biro pen!

Sunday 30 March 2008

Child/Cat Bonding


I have two children, both grown up now, and a grandson. I have never considered it too much of problem bringing an animal into the family. The problem arises with irresponsible pet owners/parents who view the animal addition as little more than a toy for their child to play with. Needless to say this is a recipe for disaster for both the child and the animal.

There are many who would recommend that the child be at least 6 years old before bringing a cat into the home. Whilst I can see justification for this, I feel that, providing due care and attention are given , the introduction of a kitten for a younger child can bring great benefits for both.

The child/cat should introduced to one another very slowly and gently. Sit your child on the floor and allow the cat to come into the room. Any sudden moves could startle the cat.
Allow your child to feed pussy some treats and stroke his/her coat very gently for a few minuets, then let the cat rest.

Get into a routine of do this each day until a mutual respect and bond has been built . Be careful with very young children. A swipe from a playful cat/kitten could make the child fearful, this could last for some time.

Include your child in the cleaning and feeding chores and set up times for play, showing your child how to do this safely, with care and importantly how to stop.
Be very careful of other children. Although you may have taught your children the correct way to treat animals many parents do not. Do not be afraid to gently inform the child and parent that the cat is not a toy.

As I have already stated, child/cat bonding should not be a problem if done correctly . To encourage a positive and respectful attitude towards animals bring great benefits to a child and , I feel sure, helps them to grow into better adults.

Saturday 29 March 2008

Nasty neighbours (or nasty human behaviour)

Cats have a licence t roam. True. But what happens when your cat strays into a neighbours garden and scrabs up some prized petunias or poos in a flower pot?

One thing we must understand as cat lovers is, that not everyone shares our enthusiasm. Now I know this mat come as a shock, but it is true none the less. So we must always be aware that our cats can sometimes offend, however unintentionally.

Many years ago my family (including cat) and I moved into a new house. After some time we settled in to our new surroundings and got to know the people in the area. I got chatting with my neighbour one day and he mentioned that my cat had been straying into his garden and inferred that “if he got his hands on it he would throttle it”
Now, I was much younger and much more fiery in those days so lets just say that my response was far less than diplomatic ! Needless to say the conflict worsened and a few weeks later my cat was found dead in a waste bin.

Sorry to bring this blog down but just want to emphasise the fact that there are many out there who regard cats as little more than vermin.

My advise would be, try and understand that there are many, many reasons why some people will go to almost any extreme to stop your cat invading their space. Always try where possible to reach a compromise. Maybe offer to clean up any mess or repair any damage and try to be sympathetic to their concerns.

Of course there will always be those who will not want to talk and who threaten drastic action towards your cat. If you have the misfortune to come into contact with these type of unfortunate people, you have my sympathies. Try to keep your cool and remind them of the penalties given to those who are wilfully cruel to animals.

It is always a good idea to have your cat neutered for a number of reasons, but it will also help to stop the straying too far.
Jenny

Thursday 27 March 2008

Cat Aggression

Yet another trait well know to most cat lovers. There you are, happy to relax with your little friend, content in each other company. Cat purring as you gently stroke and caress it, totally unaware of the turmoil that is about to be unleashed as the previously angelic feline turns psychopath in an instant !
Ok, a little dramatic but you know what I mean.

The causes for feline aggression can be many and varied and may need careful examination. One thing is known for sure. A severe reprimand, which may work for your children, will not work on a cat and may even make the problem worse.

All living creatures come with a fight or flight mechanism built in. Its how we have managed to survive for so long. It is instinctive cats behaviour to try to run away when threatened, but, like most animals, it will lash out if cornered.

Cats have a tendency to redirect their aggression. So, if something startles them and makes them feel threatened or vulnerable they may refocus their aggression on you.

Look out for aggression that may be brought on by some form of discomfort. If you are petting and pussy suddenly hisses or snarls, it could be due to a number of physical conditions. Get this checked as soon as you can with your vet.

So what about the aggression alluded to at the beginning of this piece, why does a seemingly contented cat lash out during petting ? This well known aspect of cats behaviour is just part of feline fickleness. It could be down to early socialisation patterns. It could be because cats have very sensitive skin and we may have inadvertently caused some discomfort. It could be that cats can become over stimulated.

Once a bond is built with your cat you generally get to know the signs, and know when to back away (usually), but it can be a rather steep and painful learning curve.

Red in fang and claw!
It is almost certain that at some stage during your relationship, pussy will attack ! What to do?

Cats tend to bite whilst at the same time grabbing with its front claws and raking with the back.
The worst thing to do is pull your hand sharply away . Keep calm, don’t shout or smack this will make things worst. Gently talk to the cat at the same time rub its paws very gently with your free hand until it releases its grip. Do not pet it, let it rest where it is until calm. If it is on your lap, gently try to move it and then leave cat well alone for a while to calm down fully.

That’s the theory, sounds easy does’nt it. Truth is you will probably act like most of us and instinctively pull away. Don’t feel bad about this, it takes some time to get use to leaving your hand to be mauled by this, suddenly gone mad, ball of fluff tooled with fang and claw !

Neutering may be a solution as this has the tendency to calm an aggressive tom. It is also recommended to help reduce cat overpopulation.

Also appreciate that not all biting is a sign of aggression, it may be a sign of affection. That said, it is not too difficult to spot the differences between these types of behaviour!

If aggression becomes too much of a problem, as always, consult your vet who should be able to advise on the best way to combat this aggressive cat behaviour.

Wednesday 26 March 2008

fussy eater?



Continuing the subject diet, what do you do if your cat is a fussy eater ?
I am sure that most cat owners have been in this frustrating situation. You may be surprised to learn that, providing they are given good food, it is not a natural part of a healthy cats behaviour to refuse food. Most of the fussyness is a learned response to our over pampering.

I have done it myself. Pussy turns its nose-up at some tasty morsel that you have brought back from your weekly hunt around the local supermarket. What do you do !? Feeling a little shamed that your choice has been met with utter contempt, you proceed to open an array of goodies, which probably includes a can of wild salmon, until his/her majesty is satisfied with your final offering, but only after much suspicious sniffing and scrabbing.
Next week your back in the supermarket again and join the throngs of cat owners all pondering what treats may be offered up this time. Here, at the shrine to the fickle feline, the often repeated mantra may be heard “ oh my cat wont eat that, he/she is a fussy eater and will only eat……….(you fill in the blank !)
Hard as it may be to accept, you (and I) are the problem.

I know that it is very difficult, but if you finding your cats fussy eating habits hard to cope with, then a fairly harsh regime may have to be resorted to. Try the following:

20 minuets and up

Give your cat food that you know it has eaten before. If after 20 minuets the cat still refuses the food then take the dish away. Do not, under any circumstances, give treats, snacks or other food stuff in lieu of the main meal. At the next feeding time, replace the dish and repeat the process. Repeat again at subsequent meals.
.
Other tricks for the fussy eater
  • Always keep to a strict time table for meals. Feed only twice a day.
  • Do not feed straight from the fridge, cats like food at body temperature
  • Lightly cover the discarded food with a preferred option
  • If you have more than one cat, try feeding it in a separate room, some cats prefer this.
  • Move the food away from the cat litter tray, its not nice to eat in the loo!



Now comes a major battle of wills ! Keep this up for at least 24 hours, be strong. Do not give in. It will do your cat no harm to miss a few meals. Water should always be available.
Some would advise to keep up this starvation method for longer than 24 hours, I don’t know that this is wise and would prefer not to put my cat through this. However you may want to try giving half the quantity of a food they will eat. Hunger is a great incentive and compromise may be reached.


If your cat has a long bout of not eating and seems out of sorts, you should refer to your vet for qualified advise.


Good luck
Jenny

Tuesday 25 March 2008

Vegetarian Diet ?

Should pussy be a veggie ?
I am a vegetarian. There, I’ve come straight out with it ! But I promise there are no other revelations or confessions forthcoming. Although it no longer brings gasps of horror or that accusing look that confirms you as a bit of a weirdo. Some people still like to point a wagging finger in my direction and make a barbed comment about how a vegetarian, animal lover can tolerate their animals meat eating habits, shame on me !

Well, while I am in a straight talking kind of mood, let me make my position on this matter clear.
Unlike dogs, cats have quite specific dietary needs. Whilst it is possible to feed a cat a vegetarian or even vegan diet, it should be remembered that domestic cats are from the same evolutionary branch as their wild cousins, tigers, lions, panthers etc.,etc. and these creatures are carnivores, ‘obligate carnivores’ if you want to get all technical. This means that they must eat meat which provides the nutrients a cat requires. Lack of these nutrients could lead to serious illness and death.
In short, meat eating is natural cat behaviour. Changing your companions diet may suit your sensibilities but not your cats health and should, therefore, be very carefully considered.
Also, pussy may not be happy about the change and may instinctively hunt birds and other small prey to supplement.

So, what does all this mean. Well, at the risk of offending my vegetarian sisters and brothers. It does not bother me in the slightest that my cats, or dog for that matter, eat meat.
However, in a attempt to be even-handed about the subject, I offer the following. I would welcome any comments, good or bad.


What a cat needs
  • Taurine ~ very necessary for cats, lack of this amino acid can lead to blindness. As far as I know the only source rich in this nutrient is meat.
  • Vitamin A (retinol) ~ again the richest source for this is meat, although lesser quantities are found in dairy products and eggs.
  • Vitamin B12 ~ unable to produce their own cats get this nutrient from animal products
  • Thiamine ~ a common deficiency in cats. Often lost in the processing of cat food.
  • Niacin ~ unable to produce this in significant quantities, cats need to acquire this from rich sources such as meat.
  • Arachidonic acid ~ an essential fatty acid, meat is a major source.
  • Protein ~ at over 25% of a cats diet a vegetarian diet is unlikely to provide this nutrient in great enough quantities.

Meat, meat, meat. But what about the alternatives ?
As stated, I have no problem feeding my cats a meat based diet, but for those who find this incompateble with their life philosophy there are alternatives. A word of caution though. I am not indorsing these products and professional advise should be sought from your vet should you choose to proceed. Apparently there are some very good products on the market that I will not mention by name because I have no actual experience of them.
These products use highly concentrated nutrients from non-animal sources. Some are synthetically produced and are added to standard cat food to replace nutrients destroyed during processing.


Going vegi
It is very important that you make the change slowly. Changes in diet can cause all sorts of stomach upsets such as diarrhoea and vomiting also the cat may just refuse to eat anything at all. The wisest course may be to introduce the new food by mixing it with the old then gradually increase the new and reduce the old.
Watch your cat very carefully. Should there be any signs of discomfort or distress seek the advise of your vet immediately.

Occasional foods (unconfirmed by me!)

  • Cucumber ~ provides liquid. Peel the cucumber first, the skin may not agree with pussy.
    Tomato juice ~ helps with cystitis
    Also …
    peas ~ asparagus ~ celery ~ broccoli ~ green beans and durian fruit (?)

If , on the other hand, it is just the look of meat based foods that is the big turn-off for you, Then seek out one of the many very good dried products on the market.


Please consider
Whatever your ethical or life philosophy may be is your own. It is not for anyone to judge you for that, I would not and could not. But I do urge, that the well being of your cat (or any animal in your charge) should be your primary concern. Remember it is natural cat behaviour to eat meat and that, unfortunately, is just the way of things, nature in the raw if you like.
If a vegetarian/vegan diet does not suit your cat then you should consider that fact that a cat may not be the best companion for you.


Looking forward to some reaction on this
Jenny

Monday 24 March 2008

Spraying/Cleaning cat urine

Again, natural cat behaviour that we don’t like, for obvious reasons!. As previously stated scenting is one way cats communicate. Cat urine is particularly pungent and occurs manly in unneutered tom cats although all cats, both male and female, neutered and unneutered may spray from time to time.
Spraying communicates a cats age, identity, sexual identity and activity. Spraying cat urine also marks a territory. This occurs especially if their are other cats around and your cat feel under threat. Offensive cat behaviour ? Well, only to our nose and pocket.

But smells and stains can cause distress especially if they occur inside the house, so the following may offer some comfort. But remember, a cats sense of smell is far more intense than our own and I am sure that, in some instances, a cat would complain about us if they could !

Joking aside, cat urine can be most unpleasant. It leaves a very strong smell and depending on your cats diet, sex and age, can leave deep yellow stains that are very hard, though not impossible to remove. If bedding, cushions or deep filled materials are fouled it may be all but impossible to remove the smell although it may fade with time.

Carpets ~ It is always best to treat the offending area as soon as possible. Use paper towelling or a clean cloth to absorb as much of the cats urine as possible. Use a blotting action, do not rub. The more cat urine you can remove before it dries, this less odour will remain.
Continue this action until most of the urine is removed. Then pour over a small amount of clean water and repeat the blotting action. Do this once or twice more.
There are many commercially available cleaning agents on the market for cleaning odours and stains but you may not have these available at the time an offence is committed. Some common household products could help.

Baking soda ~ sprinkle over a dampened, not wet, surface. Massage into the fabric and allow to dry, then vacuum or brush away the residue.

White vinegar ~ vinegar is a very good cleaner/odour neutraliser and disinfectant to have around the house anyway. A 3-1 mix (3 parts water to 1 of vinegar) should do the trick but you may want to adjust this as desired. Lightly soak the offending area, cover well with dry paper towels then with cloth then newspaper, (make sure the newspaper stays within the area covered by the towelling and cloth). Put something heavy over this and remove after a few hours. Use a vacuum to brush and raise the pile of the carpet.

Furniture upholstery ~ remove the fabric if at all possible. Use a blotting action to remove as much of the cat urine as possible. Wet thoroughly with clean water and dab again until most of the liquid is removed, repeat. Rub the soiled area in a circular motion to remove further liquid, then dry with a hair dryer on a cool setting working from the outer edge inwards.

Wooden flooring ~ wash with clean water, then several times with white vinegar, then again with warm soapy water. Blot until dry.

When using vinegar/ vinegar solution, always test a hidden area prior to use on the stain

If you have cat urine on your clothes try apple cider vinegar. Add ¼ of a cup to your regular washing powder and proceed with your normal wash cycle. Of course this method applies to any fabric that can be removed and washed in your machine.

As stated, there are many commercial products available for removing cat urine. As cat owners it is always preferable to have these to hand. Unfortunately, life is often not quite that obliging. The above ideas may help to solve the immediate problem.

Carpets and flooring may need the additional help of a wet and dry vacuum cleaner.
Specialised pet stain/odour removers and enzyme/bacteria cleaners should be applied as soon as possible to any soiled areas, this will also discourage pussy from repeating the indiscretion
Always read the label prior to use.

I hope the above suggestions have been of some help. There are many ideas circulating to tackle this problem, some good some not so good and some best left alone if you don’t want to remove most of your furnishings along with the cat pee!. Again let common sense prevail and always try a hidden area with any solution, be it home made or shop bought, prior to treating the stain.
Jenny

Saturday 22 March 2008

Cat Training

Now what do we mean by cat training. I don’t know about you, but the thought of training my cat to perform tricks does not appeal in the slightest. For me, one of the biggest attractions of a cats behaviour is its independence and the fact that, although house trained, it is still essentially an instinctive, wild animal.

Cats can be taught to do tricks, give its paw for some reward, roll over etc. and without question some cats enjoy training sessions, but safe to say they are not as responsive as dogs and I love that about the cats character as much as I love a dogs willingness to learn!

So if you are looking for instruction on “10 ways to teach your cat to do tricks” your in for a disappointment. In this article we will only be looking at ways to house train your cat.

Good Cat litter box strategies

Training a cat to use a litter tray is rarely a problem. But in order to encourage litter tray usage, the following strategies should help.

  • Show puss the litter box by placing them in it, but never force them to stay. If your cat does foul outside of the litter box take them quickly to the box and place them in it, NEVER scold or punish the cat, it just causes more anxiety.
  • Location, location, location! Like humans cats like a bit of privacy. In the wild a cat pooing is vulnerable so it needs a quiet , comfortable and safe place to relieve itself. And should you not provide this, a cat will find its own spot, but hey, that your fault not theirs! Remember cats are instinctive creatures, and this is normal cat behaviour!
  • Try to locate the litter box away from too much human interruption. Cats often will make us aware of a preferred location. Try to be aware of this and toilet training should not pose too much of a problem. Of course you must also consider your own preferences and try to locate the box where odour does not waft around the house. A suitable compromise can usually be found.
  • Never put food and water with the litter box, would you like to eat dinner in the loo?!

If tiddles now refuses to tiddle in the litter box, one or more of the following could be governing factors.

  • Has the box been moved?. This could confuse your cat.
  • Is the litter clean ?. The litter tray should be spotless. Remove the soiled litter regularly, at least once a day. Clean the litter tray thoroughly at least once a week.
  • Try to use the same litter brand. Cats, like us, have preferences and will often not use a litter they do not like.
  • Have you changed the depth of the litter in the tray ?.
  • Is a bigger box required ?.
  • Is the box difficult to get to? This may be a problem for kittens and older cats.
  • More than one cat ? Try getting each cat their own box.

Changes in environment can also cause problems. Moving house, the introduction of another cat, the addition of a baby to the family or an unfriendly cat moving into the territory can cause stress and alter your cats behaviour. Cats are by nature very clean animals so any change in your cats behaviour should be treated with care, understanding and patience. Also look out for illness, if suspected take the cat to your vet as soon as possible.


Of course it is preferable, where possible, to do away with the litter tray. If you have a garden and would like to encourage your cat to use more natural surroundings, invest in a cat flap and gradually move the tray to the door then eventually outside. It may be a good idea to place food dishes where the litter tray had previously been to discourage fouling.
However, generally speaking, cats do need much encouragement to use outside facilities when available.


Training your cat to comply to other house rules such as jumping on or scratching furniture just takes a little bit of patience. Scratching occurs when a cat marks its territory both visually (claw marks) and with sent glands in its paws. This is again natural cat behaviour. You can discourage shredding of your home by buying a scratching post and redirecting your cats attention to it.


Stick to the house rules. Don’t let your cat get away with something one time then reprimand it for the same “crime” on another occasion. Try to be firm but fair and, It goes without saying, never, NEVER hit, smack, shout, scream or in any other way frighten your cat. Frustration at a cats behaviour is to expected from time to time, after all we are only human, but resorting to harsh forms of punishment indicates your lack of intelligence ~ not the cats !

Social habits - Cat to Cat / Cat to Dog Intergration

It is safe to say that cats do not need social contact. But we and other cats can be incorporated into and become part of their social group. Anything outside of this group will often be viewed as a threat.

With two cats in my family I know how close cats can become, given time. My original pair were taken from the same litter, so the bond was there from birth. This is always the best way to introduce cats to your home. As stated in the previous article, an additional cat can help to keep your existing cat stimulated and if one of the pairing are lost, as in my case, the need to introduce another cat may have to be considered. Lets face it, for cat lovers having one cat is rarely on option anyway!

Think about the stress bringing another cat into the house can have on both animals. This is where attention to your cats behaviour pays dividends. Yes I know the obvious territorial problems are more than apparent. But look for more subtle changes in your cats behaviour and try to address them with heaps of understanding and due care. Slow and sure is always best.

If possible, set aside a separate area or room for the newcomer that includes a litter tray, bed, food and water bowls, scratching post and toys. This will help to make the cat feel relaxed and safe. You should make frequent visits and spend time with newcomer and existing cats.
Swapping Scent is an important part of cat integration. If both cats get use to smelling the other on you, it may ease the introduction when it comes. Remember you are an important part of the social network, if you seem relaxed about the situation so may the new and existing cat.

It could also a good idea to swap food bowls and bedding for the same reason but not litter trays, food or toys. Give it a day or two before introducing the new moggy to the rest of the family.
You should also consider the character of your existing cat and try to introduce a cat that is not too dissimilar in temperament.

If a kitten is being introduced to an older cat the same rules apply. Often the introduction of a kitten to an older cat can give the cat a new lease of life.

Instinctive cat behaviour is such that introductions rarely go absolutely smoothly or without some quarter being reluctantly given by one or both of the cats. But, with time and patience, the pecking order is sorted and a grudging acceptance established that can turn to a lasting and strong friendship.

Cats and dogs

Not always easy, but much depends on the age and experience of either animal. An older cat with experience of dogs will adjust more quickly than one that hasn’t, as will a dog that has previously lived with a cat. Again slow and sure Is the rule here.

The best time to integrate cats with dogs is obviously when they are kittens and puppies then it will seen as a normal part of socialisation.

A bit of common sense needs to be applied for older animals. If a dog is use to chasing cats, then better not introduce one to the family.

My sister has always had both cats and dogs without too much of a problem. Introductions are not always smooth events, but a social order is quickly established. With the cat at the top of course! And when the bond is established normal cat behaviour resumes and the pair can become great companions.

Friday 21 March 2008

Keeping Kitty Entertained

I t may seem difficult to believe, but cats can become bored. Cat lovers are use to seeing their puss sleeping around the house, garden or other favourite haunt and often make the mistaken assumption that cats are lazy and the last thing they want is entertainment. Wrong. Although sleeping may vary depending on your cats character, the fact is that instinctive cat behaviour dictates that they are most active when we are not.


You must always bear in mind that cats are only one small step from their wild cousins. In fact a cat left to its own devises will quickly revert and become feral. In the wild hunting takes place when natural prey is most active, that is, late evening and early morning. For this reason cats can spend much of the daylight hours sleeping or “cat napping”.
However, sleeping could also indicate that the cat is not being stimulated enough. Without a varied and interesting environment cats can quickly become bored, withdrawn, inactive or possibly aggressive. So look closely at your cats behaviour. Other signs of boredom could also include over grooming and overeating or worrying for food.


Although a solitary animal, cats can become lonely if not kept stimulated. How would you feel if you were left for long periods on your own, with no contact, no means of getting to the outside world and nothing to keep you occupied. What we may consider a safe and cosy home for a much loved pet can quickly become little more than a gilded prison.
If your cats behaviour show any of the above signs you may want to think about the following.


10 ways to stimulate your cat


  • Where possible access should be available to the outside environment. A cats natural instinct is to roam, explore and hunt. Obviously there are a wealth of things to keep a cat entertained in such an environment.

  • Spend time with your cat. Talk to it, pet it and play with it. Quality time for you both!

  • Get your cat to socialize with other people, new faces and smells are interesting !

  • Get another cat. Although it is better to do this when a kitten, older cats can be introduced, but make sure they are compatible. (more about this in the next blog)

  • A radio or TV left on will make the cat feel that it is not alone. Of course, safety issues should also be considered when leaving on electrical appliances for long periods. So use some common sense here!

  • How about a fishy friend ! Fish tanks and goldfish bowls can give a cat hours of fun. Just make sure you have a secure lid !!

  • A bird feeder in view from a window encourages instinctive cat behaviour, Enough said!

  • Let your cat explore. Get some cat furniture or a cheaper option, some cardboard boxes or maybe both. Variety is the spice of life. This rule applies to your cat as much as you. Cut holes in the boxes, put in some treats and toys. Have some fun with this and so will your cat.

  • Food hunt. Hide treats around the house. Loads of fun for kitty !

  • Toys. Home made or shop bought these are great ways to stimulate your cat and help to keep them fit. Always make sure the toy cannot be swallowed

These are just a few ways to keep your cat amused but let your imagination run wild with this. Also, as already stated, it is important to consider life from the cats perspective. As you need stimulating , so does your cat. Think about how you can encourage your cats behaviour in stimulating and instinctive ways.

Understanding our Feline Friends

Lets face it, the biggest problem that we humans have to overcome before we can understand our cats behaviour, is the belief that we are the superior species.

Cat lovers all over the world have experienced that withering look of superiority and indifference that accompany our very best efforts to entertain, show affection, feed or in anyway communicate with them. And when they do acknowledge us, it is often strictly on their terms. But when they do respond, the joy this furry little creature brings knows no bounds.

And so, what follows is perhaps futile attempt to infiltrate the cats psyche and to penetrate into the cats world. While stumbling around the world of this most illusive of creatures, it may become clear that we humans belong to a somewhat lower order (well, I am sure that’s how my cats feel anyway !).

In what, at times, will be an ever-so tongue-in-cheek introduction to the blog, we will cover some familiar ways to understand your cats behaviour. But please note that while trying to keep the opening information on the light side, it has, none the less, a more serious purpose. And that is to give us the skills to truly understand our cats behaviour.
For sure, we must put in the effort to understand them because, by and large, cats are totally indifferent to trying to understand us.!

Purring
Generally a sign of contentment but cats will also purr if ill or distressed in some way. More often though, this is the behaviour of a happy cat. A mother will reassure her kittens by purring and kittens will respond likewise. Cats will also purr at the perceived threat of another cat to show that they pose no threat to them.

Scientists are still uncertain about the mechanics of the purr. There are a couple of theories as to how a cat produces the sound, but without getting all technical, it is probably safe to say that both are right, or wrong, but then again, who cares! (unless you’re a scientist of course)

Some cats may seem not to purr. However, it could be that a particular cats purr resonates beyond our hearing range. Because of the difficulty studying this particular cat behaviour, no one can be sure why some cats seem not to purr.

Meowing
A whole stand alone section could be written on this aspect of cat behaviour and when coupled with a various expressions and body postures a host of moods can be conveyed.
Cats mainly communicate with each other through body language and scent. But the exasperated moggy soon learns that humans are unable to pickup this subtle art and therefore resorts to a much cruder form of language, just for us.

  • Short meow ~ greeting with affection ~ “hi, by the way, any food?"
  • Multiple meows ~ attention grabber/excitement ~ “Hello!, I’m so glad you’re here. Now, what about that food ?”
  • Low grumbling meow ~ complaining ~ “I don’t mean to push you but some food would be nice.”
  • Loud, rounded, long mewing ~ “no, really pay some attention, I need feeding, NOW!”
  • Eating purr ~ content ~“thank you so much, you took your time but better late than never”
  • Growl ~ complaint/annoyance ~ “ look I’ve just been fed and want to go to sleep. GO AWAY!”
  • Screaming ~ Often heard before fighting or mating. (only if dinners not ready)


But more seriously, vocalisation could also be sign of distress or discomfort.
Sharp, high pitched meows could be and indication of pain especially if followed by growls or rumbles. Get to know your cat, if your cats behaviour seems out of character seek professional advise from your vet. Remember if in doubt, ask.


Kneading
Typical happy cat behaviour! A kitten will paw its mother when content and/or to encourage the flow of milk.


Rubbing/Head butting
Going up on hind legs and rubbing against you is a sign of greeting and deep affection (and also cupboard love when food is in the offering !). Also a way of claiming you. With scent glands along the tail, lips, either side of the head, chin, tail base, paws etc.the cat will “scent” you by rubbing and head butting, it also does this to pick up your scent.


Happy greeting
Tail erect tip bent forward, sometimes the tail will quiver with excitement. Eyes often half closed and blinking slowly. Try mimicking this eye action, this often gets a very positive response !


Tail swish
No need to elaborate on this aspect of cat behaviour. Just watch out !
Tail and fur fluff/ ears flat
Very, very annoyed. Trying to intimidate by making themselves look as big as possible. Best to leave well alone!


Biting
Hay why not ! Sometime we humans just have to be put in our place. This often happens when petting. You see, what we fail to realise is that in cat world the subservient beast will often groom the superior. we stroke the cat, get it ! So when his lordship/her ladyship has had enough a nip or cuff will soon show who’s in charge.
But a nip can also be a sign of much affection often accompanied by licking. It shows acceptance of you as an equal (well maybe!)


Gift giving
There are a number of theories about this aspect of a cats behaviour. Probably a combination of these apply. Predominantly it seems to be another token of affection tinged with concern that you are totally unable to hunt and provide for yourself !


The above is a very brief insight into cat behaviour. But cats are notoriously elusive, independent creatures and each individual has its own unique character (much like humans, but more refined of course!) and this is, I think, their attraction. Unlike us and our other erstwhile companion, the dog, they are not a pack animal. The total lack of need for social contact gives them a freedom that we both admire and envy. Therefore when bonds have been made we feel privileged to be allowed into their world .


I hope you have enjoyed this all to brief introduction. Further articles will concentrate on the more practical aspects of cat behaviour and cat care.